Sightseeing from the number 2 tram
There cannot be many tram rides even in the great cities of the world where it is possible to see all the best tourist attractions for the price of just a single ticket. In Budapest, though, a ride on the number 2 tram is just such. The following is a brief description of what to look out for on a southbound journey. The total time from end to end is about 21 minutes, with the first and last trams leaving the southern Közvágóhíd terminus at 4.45 a.m. and 11.25 p.m. respectively. The tramcars themselves are of Hungarian design and date from 1967. There are interesting sights both to the left and right of the tram’s progress, but the best place to sit is on the side nearest the River Danube. And be careful not to get on a number 2A tram, as that only goes as far as Petőfi Bridge.
JÁSZAI MARI TÉR
The northern terminus of the number 2 tram is located at the
Pest end of Margaret Bridge. The big building between the stop and the
river is popularly known as the “White House.” During the Communist era
this was Party’s power house. Nowadays it contains parliamentary
offices. There is easy interchange here with the number 4 and 6 trams,
which operate the length of the Outer Ring Road (Nagykörút).
SZALAY UTCA
On the right is the Parliament building, on the left the former
Palace of Justice, now the Museum of Ethnography. The big square is
named after Lajos Kossuth, one of the leaders of the Uprising and War
of Independence of 1848/49. The somewhat idealistic statue of Kossuth
behind us dates from the 1950’s.
KOSSUTH LAJOS TÉR
At almost 900 feet long, the Parliament building is of such a
size that the tram stops a second time at the other end of the square.
Here there is a statue of a freedom fighter from another age, Ferenc
Rákóczi II. The statue was erected in 1935, on the two hundredth
anniversary of his death.
ROOSEVELT TÉR
On the left hand side is the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, and
to the right the Chain Bridge and the whole panorama of Buda. As the
tram sets off again, catch a glimpse if you can of the art nouveau
Gresham Hotel on the left; it won’t be easy, as the tram creakily
descends into a tunnel under the bridge.
EÖTVÖS TÉR
To the left is the first of several luxury hotels that line the
river bank. The pedestrianized embankment, known as the Korzó, is a
traditional favourite for a gentle promenade. The former Royal Palace,
which dominates the skyline on the Buda side, was never the permanent
home of Hungarian royalty, although the Habsburg kings would often stay
here.
VIGADÓ TÉR
The main building on the square is a famous concert hall and
ballroom. On the right is a succession of floating restaurants and
clubs. Plus we still have an outstanding view of the Buda panorama.
Passing the Elizabeth Bridge (opened 1964), this is one of the best
examples of modern architecture in the city. There are still, however,
plenty of people who regret that when the bridge was erected the
opportunity was not taken to build a copy of the original art nouveau
construction that had been bombed during the Second World War.
MÁRCIUS 15. TÉR
This is a good viewpoint for Gellért Hill, which is taller than
Castle Hill, and explains why it has a citadel built on top of it. In
1867 the authorities decided it should be demolished. That was then
deemed too costly, so it was left. Now it is a tourist attraction and
restaurant.
FŐVÁM TÉR
Alight here for a much-to-be-recommended visit to the Central
Market Hall. The tram stop is in an unattractive underpass, permanently
covered in graffiti, no matter how often it is cleaned off.
ZSIL UTCA
The tram is now leaving the elegant city centre ever further
behind. This is a stop used by students of the Corvinus University.
There are many university buildings on the Buda side as well, mostly
connected with the various science and engineering faculties.
BORÁROS TÉR
The 4 and the 6 trams cross above, affording the second (and
final) opportunity to change and see the buildings of the Outer Ring
Road (Nagykörút). There are not many tourists around here, for this is
very much everyday Budapest.
HALLER UTCA
The liqueur factory on the left hand side is a venerable
Budapest institution. The flats and office buildings on the right are
part of the brand new Millennium City Centre complex. The bridge whose
red support columns are now coming into view is the Lágymányosi Bridge.
KÖZVÁGÓHÍD - MILLENNIUMI KULTURÁLIS KÖZPONT (MILLENNIUM CULTURAL CENTRE)
The Közvágóhíd is on the left. On the right is the controversial
new National Theatre and the popular Palace of Arts buildings. The
latter contains a concert hall and theatre, as well as the Ludwig
Museum of Contemporary Art (known popularly as “Lumú”).
This is the end of the line. The tram driver changes ends and sets off again for the city centre. For a good cup of coffee, it is worth going back with him as far as Március 15. tér (handy for the Central Coffee House), or Vigadó tér (for Gerbeaud), alternatively Eötvös tér (for the Gresham). And this time why not sit on the other side of the tram to enjoy the view all over again?
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